Is perfume luxury a term that still means anything nowadays?
At a time when brands considered to be a luxury are releasing sometimes several fragrances a year, often confirming the age-old rule that more does not mean any better (and actually it is usually an opposite), the creator of the Puredistance brand Jan Ewoud Vos since its inception cares about it to be seen as a synonym for true luxury. It is not only about the juice itself, which is in that case always of the highest quality, but also about everything that comes with it – from an unusual bottle, through luxury accessories, limited distribution, respectively high price to the frequency with which the brand launches a new fragrance. Puredistance launches it once a year or less and only because of that fact the brand is one of the few exceptions. Recall: in 2007 there was the first perfume Puredistance I. In 2010, the brand presented two scents: female Antonia and male Puredistance M. In 2012 appeared Opardu, in 2013 Black and in 2015 – White. For 2016 an unique launch was announced …
Admittedly, the launch of the new fragrance was this time extremely carefully prepared and carried out. The advertising campaign served in the electronic media long before the premiere resembled campaign of a new film by a famous director. At the beginning, it was only known that Puredistance had been preparing a new fragrance. With time, the company revealed its name giving its letters gradually one by one. Once we had learned that its name was SHEIDUNA, representatives of the brand became literally silent.
Company was dosing the tension to such an extent that even during this year’s Esxence trade fair in Milan its representatives refused to disclose any details about the announced autumn release. Even the fact to whom this time Jan Ewoud Vos entrusted to compose the perfume remained a mistery…
Jan Ewoud Vos came up with the name of the perfume combining words SHE (She) and Dune (Dune). It reflects the nature of the scent, which is a combination of Parisian elegance and oriental sensuality.
After some time the name of the perfumer (Cecile Zarokian) was revealed, then SHEIDUNA was presented in New York before the official launch, where it provoked positive reactions. Zarokian herself participated in the presentation. The fact that it was she who translated Jan Ewoud Vos’ vision into a mixture of fragrant molecules thrilled perfume industry and critics. Cecile has been very creative in recent years and with SHEIDUNA she once again proved that he has a lot to say in perfumery and that despite of a relatively short career, she have already worked out here own style. Her fragrances are often works of perfume art (Epic Woman Amouage, Mon Nom Est Rouge Majda Bekkali, Tango Masque Milano, Aqua Sextius Jul et Mad, Patchouliful Laboratorio Olfattivo, to mention just the best).
Work on SHEIDUNA lasted about a year, and the world premiere took place in September 2016 during the Pitti Fragranze event in Florence. According to representatives of the brand the aroma created there a real sensation. Reactions of the audience had been captured on numerous pictures:
SHEIDUNA smells very natural from the first to the very last second. The top chord appears as an aromatic blend of citruses (mostly lemon and tangerine) reinforced with aldehydes and juicy green black currant. Under that fresh aroma gradually emerges the heart of the fragrance, built with a key essence – that of Bulgarian rose. It has been traditionally combined here geranium and patchouli and subtly spiced up with cloves. The heart is at first rosy-spicy, but with the passage of time it turns into a very sensual and very complex aroma, where rose is still present, but it changes its surroundings. The smell is getting warmer and the nostrils begin to smell a scent which is a kind of Cecile Zarokian’s signature when it comes to floral-oriental aesthetics – a blend of amber, resins, vanilla absolute, Tonka and musk with a floral dominant (here it is obviously rose). The effect is similar to what we smell in Mon Nom Est Rouge for Majda Bekkali and – to some extent – also Tango Masque Milano. SHEIDUNA, however, is in its nature more balanced, harmonious and subtle. Less experimental and more classic. Goes off the skin very slowly, being a long-lasting skin scent where traces of rose are attached to the skin with a solid dose of musk. Durability is here also a result of a very high concentration: with 27% SHEIDUNA is basically an extract de parfum.
SHEIDUNA projects noticeably, but subtly, which also makes it different from the previously mentioned fragrances composed by Cecile which power is not always acceptable for everyone. Honestly though, I expected SHEIDUNA to smell somewhat more robust and intense. On the other hand, if I remember other Puredistance fragrances correctly, none of them belong to the titans of power, and the brand apparently prefers scents that are not olfactory bombs, which of course does not diminish their value at all.
In my opinion SHEIDUNA is – in spite of a female targeting – a unisex scent with just slightly female inclination. Devotees of oriental scents of both sexes can fall in love with it. As an oriental fragrance with a rose dominant SHEIDUNA is a very well done addition to the Puredistance’s scented offer.
Will SHEIDUNA meet the expectations of perfume connoisseurs, as was the case in New York and Florence? We will probably find out soon. The fragrance is now hitting the shelves of the stores cooperating with Puredistance.
P.S. My wife is getting a lot of complements while wearing it which doesn’t surprise me at all as it smells really magnificent on her.
main ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetiver, patchouli, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musk
launched in: 2016
perfumer: Cecile Zarokian