Puredistance SHEIDUNA – a marriage of oriental sensuality and Parisian elegance

Is perfume luxury a term that still means anything nowadays?

At a time when brands considered to be a luxury are releasing sometimes several fragrances a year, often confirming the age-old rule that more does not mean any better (and actually it is usually an opposite), the creator of the Puredistance brand Jan Ewoud Vos since its inception cares about it to be seen as a synonym for true luxury. It is not only about the juice itself, which is in that case always of the highest quality, but also about everything that comes with it – from an unusual bottle, through luxury accessories, limited distribution, respectively high price to the frequency with which the brand launches a new fragrance. Puredistance launches it once a year or less and only because of that fact the brand is one of the few exceptions. Recall: in 2007 there was the first perfume Puredistance I. In 2010, the brand presented two scents: female Antonia and male Puredistance M. In 2012 appeared Opardu, in 2013 Black and in 2015 – White. For 2016 an unique launch was announced …

Admittedly, the launch of the new fragrance was this time extremely carefully prepared and carried out. The advertising campaign served in the electronic media long before the premiere resembled campaign of a new film by a famous director. At the beginning, it was only known that Puredistance had been preparing a new fragrance. With time, the company revealed its name giving its letters gradually one by one. Once we had learned that its name was SHEIDUNA, representatives of the brand became literally silent.

Company was dosing the tension to such an extent that even during this year’s Esxence trade fair in Milan its representatives refused to disclose any details about the announced autumn release. Even the fact to whom this time Jan Ewoud Vos entrusted to compose the perfume remained a mistery…

Jan Ewoud Vos came up with the name of the perfume combining words SHE (She) and Dune (Dune). It reflects the nature of the scent, which is a combination of Parisian elegance and oriental sensuality.

After some time the name of the perfumer (Cecile Zarokian) was revealed, then SHEIDUNA  was presented in New York before the official launch, where it provoked positive reactions. Zarokian herself participated in the presentation. The fact that it was she who translated  Jan Ewoud Vos’ vision into a mixture of fragrant molecules thrilled perfume industry and critics. Cecile has been very creative in recent years and with SHEIDUNA she once again proved that he has a lot to say in perfumery and that despite of a relatively short career, she have already worked out here own style. Her fragrances are often works of perfume art (Epic Woman Amouage, Mon Nom Est Rouge Majda Bekkali, Tango Masque Milano, Aqua Sextius Jul et Mad, Patchouliful Laboratorio Olfattivo, to mention just the best).

Work on SHEIDUNA lasted about a year, and the world premiere took place in September 2016 during the Pitti Fragranze event in Florence. According to representatives of the brand the aroma created there a real sensation. Reactions of the audience had been captured on numerous pictures:

SHEIDUNA smells very natural from the first to the very last second. The top chord appears as an aromatic blend of citruses (mostly lemon and tangerine) reinforced with aldehydes and juicy green black currant. Under that fresh aroma gradually emerges the heart of the fragrance, built with a key essence – that of Bulgarian rose. It has been traditionally combined here geranium and patchouli and subtly spiced up with cloves. The heart is at first rosy-spicy, but with the passage of time it turns into a very sensual and very complex aroma, where rose is still present, but it changes its surroundings. The smell is getting warmer and the nostrils begin to smell a scent which is a kind of Cecile Zarokian’s signature when it comes to floral-oriental aesthetics – a blend of amber, resins, vanilla absolute, Tonka and musk with a floral dominant (here it is obviously rose). The effect is similar to what we smell in Mon Nom Est Rouge for Majda Bekkali and – to some extent – also Tango Masque Milano. SHEIDUNA, however, is in its nature more balanced, harmonious and subtle. Less experimental and more classic. Goes off the skin very slowly, being a long-lasting skin scent where traces of rose are attached to the skin with a solid dose of musk. Durability is here also a result of a very high concentration: with 27% SHEIDUNA is basically an extract de parfum.

SHEIDUNA projects noticeably, but subtly, which also makes it different from the previously mentioned fragrances composed by Cecile which power is not always acceptable for everyone. Honestly though, I expected SHEIDUNA to smell somewhat more robust and intense. On the other hand, if I remember other Puredistance fragrances correctly, none of them belong to the titans of power, and the brand apparently prefers scents that are not olfactory bombs, which of course does not diminish their value at all.

In my opinion SHEIDUNA is – in spite of a female targeting – a unisex scent with just slightly female inclination. Devotees of oriental scents of both sexes can fall in love with it. As an oriental fragrance with a rose dominant SHEIDUNA is a very well done addition to the Puredistance’s scented offer.

Will SHEIDUNA meet the expectations of perfume connoisseurs, as was the case in New York and Florence? We will probably find out soon. The fragrance is now hitting the shelves of the stores cooperating with Puredistance.

P.S. My wife is getting a lot of complements while wearing it which doesn’t surprise me at all as it smells really magnificent on her. 

main ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetiver, patchouli, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musk

launched in: 2016

perfumer: Cecile Zarokian

 

 

Chanel Les Exclusifs „Coromandel”

Coromandel refers to Chinese lacquered decorative folding screens of which mademoiselle Coco Chanel was a big enthusiast and collector (and which came to Europe from China in XVII century through ports located on Indian Coromandel cost). Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake created this remarkable scent in 2007 and added it to the boutique and exclusive Les Exclusifs collection. Of course, the inspiration lies here only in the name as the scent does not consist of any wooden, paint or varnish notes, which I myself consider as an advantage.

I remember my first reaction to this smell – I was entranced. I saw a movie about Coco Chanel the next day featuring lovely Audrey Tautou and at the same time I tested the scent on my skin. The experience was exceptional. Synaesthesia worked perfectly. Till this day I am spellbound to it as Coromandel is really a special perfume and despite my proficiency it is really hard to describe it accurately enough. I will try my best nonetheless – still, this is what this blog is actually about.

Coromandel belongs to a woody-balsamic family of scents in which the main role plays patchouli together with resin (benzoin) and incense (olibanum) notes, accompanied by a subtle note of white chocolate. The effect of this composition – made with true perfumery mastery – is utterly resplendent. Patchouli is very charming in itself and can do perfumery wonders if used with moderation and intent. It likes to dominate the whole composition but it also has one magical property: despite its characteristic, bit mouldy, camphor, sour-earthy notes, it perfectly pairs, as it might sometimes seem, with uncommon partners (such as for example caramel ethyl maltol – thanks to which – in simple words – chocolate was achieved in famous Angel by T. Mugler). Polge and Sheldrake took this bit more culinary course but they achieved the balance, they soothed the patchouli oil sharp character with excellent quality resins and balms and – as I think – vanilla. The accord of white chocolate will cause palpitations to every perfumery aesthete and stands as a great counterpoint for patchouli. Luckily Coromandel does not boil over with sweetness. The authors did not overdo with anything apart from exaggerated beauty – this I cannot deny.

 

 

Coromandel has this “something” in it. Truly not many perfumes cause this kind of reaction in me. Maybe it simply reminds me of something that I really like or maybe it is just that perfect. The scent evolves slowly, over time the dominant patchouli note retreats, making space for amber note (but what kind of a note!). The patchouli note can still be smelled somewhere in the background though. Not much is happening here but that is good as what we have is absolutely sensational. Without any doubts this is the most beautiful scent with dominant patchouli I know and at the same time I have ever had a chance to wear and test. Absolutely top-end product.

In the Internet Coromandel is compared to Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens, the difference between those two is that in the first one we find white chocolate note and in the other one dark chocolate note. I cannot say much about this as I cannot remember Serge’s composition that well (I tested its micro-sample long long time ago). Still, taking into consideration fact that Christopher Sheladrake took part in the creation of Coromandel, those two scents might indeed be quite similar. I will check that soon enough.
When it comes to quality and usage properties, Coromandel proves perfect here as well. The strength, projection, sillage and finally the lasting-power. Same as it was with Sycomore, we deal with a unisex type of a perfume. Personally I think they are even more for men than for women.

I waited with this review for a long time, being abashed with Coromandel’s beauty. This scent is perfect in every way. It smells luxury – that is for sure, at the same time it stands as an example of quality and moderation. For me everything is ideal here. People more familiar with Channel’s exclusive series name Coromandel as the best one from the whole series. I myself can only compare it to Sycomore and can say that if Polge/ Sheldrake had used in the same brilliant way vetiver as they did with patchouli in Coromandel, surely I would be down on my knees and stay like that from the delight. I must admit that this is what I actually expected as I put my hands on Coromandel first. On the other hand I would not like to diminish Sycomore as it is a great perfume as well.

Wearing Coromandel is an authentic pleasure. Pity that the availability of this scent is so limited, even though that we live in the era of Internet shopping and absolutely no boundaries whatsoever. Well almost…

 

main notes: patchouli, white chocolate, benzoin, vanilla

launched in: 2007

perfumers: Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake

Aedes de Venustas „Grenadille d’Afrique” – the smell of ebony

Grenadille d’Afrique means as much as “black wood” in Latin. Dalbergia melanoxylon. The tree from which the wood is obtained known as ebony. This ebony and the natural environment in which there were the inspiration for the creation of New York’s latest fragrance by Aedes de Venustas, which had its premiere at this year’s Pitti Fragranze in Florence and soon to appear in selected perfumeries worldwide. Grenadille d’Afrique was created by Alberto Morillas (as Palissandre D’Or from 2015). So it is the second perfume which the Master has created for gentlemen Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner. Interestingly, both smells really woody and has wood in the name.

The woodiness of  Grenadille d’Afrique comes down to his vetiver dominant. Vetiver is present from the beginning, although at first for a short period “refreshed” with the bergamot and eventually supported by juniper, violet and lavender. At the base you can still smell mostly Haitian vetiver, set on a dark, almost charcoal in its character chord composed of vanilla and labdanum. Besides its evident woodiness the fragrance has also a distinctive mineral aura. The just mentioned ingredients accompanying to vetiver work here on the final result, without “taking control” individually. They have been subordinated to the vision of the creators, which in one sentence characterizes Alberto Morillas:

Fossilized wood rubbed in a vanilla accord

Alberto Morillas

When testing a perfume, I am always looking for comparisons with other fragrances to let the readers not knowing the scent imagine its nature. With Grenadille d’Afrique there is a lot of such to compare. But the most adequate seems to be Encre Noire by Lalique (eau de toilette). Alberto Morillas work reminds me precisely of the cult perfume composed by Nathalie Lorson in 2006. But of course there are differences. In Grenadille d’Afrique we will not find – to my delight – sour notes of Encre Noire and that big dose of cashmeran. The juniper took here over the role of the cypress. Morillas work smells fresher, it s more stylish and seems to be more pleasant and easier to wear, at least for me. It projects politely and lasts on the skin over 8 hours. As a whole, Grenadille d’Afrique convinces me even though it is not so original as Palissandre d’Or and not so mesmerizingly beautiful as Iris Nazarena. Nevertheless, it is a very solid position not only in the portfolio of Aedes de Venustas but also in the family of vetiver centered fragrances.

main notes: bergamot, lavender, juniper, vetiver from Haiti, cistus (labdanum), vanilla, musk

launched in: 2016

perfumer: Alberto Morillas