Puredistance No.12 – a dream come true

About a year ago I shared here my impressions about the beautiful perfume called RUBIKONA by Puredistance. It was then that I found out that the brand intends to introduce another perfume in about a year, which will conclude the cycle of 12 fragrances that make up the complete collection. As if to emphasize this number, the newest fragrance by Puredistance was simply named No.12 and it is special not only for this reason.

Usually it is a perfume brand that asks a perfumer to collaborate and compose a perfume. Most often a perfumer, who has many ready-made compositions in his drawers that have not yet seen the light of day, proposes one of them to the client. Then he chooses one and either does not change anything or changes are made. It also happens so that the customer-perfumer duo works on the fragrance from scratch (such as, for example, Frederic Malle). But it is rare for a world class perfumer to express willingness to cooperate with a brand. And this was the case here. Nathalie Feisthauer (known for composing Cartier Must Pour Homme, Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Versace Blonde among others) passed through a mutual friend a message to Jan Ewoud Vos – founder and head of Puredistance – with the information that it would be a dream come true for her, if she could work on a perfume for Puredistance.

Jan recalls that during the meeting Nathalie introduced to him several ready-made compositions but it was the first one – tentatively called Gold Taffeta – that made such an impact on him, that his choice was obvious.

Knowing the nature of Puredistance as a brand but most of all knowing the aesthetics of its fragrances and comparing it to No.12, I am sure that Feisthauer either did a thorough research or had an amazing intuition. She chose a composition that fits perfectly into the world of Puredistance: luxurious, rich, abundant, slightly baroque and of the highest quality. So she suggested perfectly and Ewoud Vos choose it right on the spot.

No.12 is the essence of Puredistance, no doubt here. A beautiful rich chypre-oriental fragrance made of many aromatic absolutes, very complex and multi-layered as well as contemporary.

As usual in Puredistance the fragrance is very concentrated (25% – perfume extract) and so complex that it is extremely difficult to distinguish any dominant or prominent notes / chords in it. Its character is shaped by an extremely rich bouquet of flower essences (looking at the official list of notes, we can find here virtually all possible floral ingredient), which has a nobility given by the iris butter. This overwhelming floral-ness is set on an oriental-woody base accord, where tonka and vanilla set the tone, while the woody notes add depth and body. And there is also patchouli which – if skillfully used, as it is here – adds alot of sensuality. The prelude of the fragrance is decorated with a mixture of citrus and spices with a sensual rather than spicy character (cardamom and coriander). I appreciate the craftsmanship of Nathalie Feisthauer. Composing such a harmonious perfume out of so many such intense ingredients – it is an extremely difficult art in my opinion, especially since many of the ingredients used here are of a natural origin and are usually very complex on their own rights.

No.12 is a rather traditional feminine perfume when it comes to its structure and composition. It is an oriental chypre, but with a contemporary character. It is dense and enveloping, elegant, sophisticated and seems to be a great one for an evening out. It is super chic like most Puredistance perfumes.

This perfume is a class on its own and it is really hard to compare it to any other perfume because it is a bit like comparing a Bentley or a Rolls Royce to any other luxury car. However, to bring its smell closer to those who will not have the opportunity to test it, I write diplomatically: if you love Oud Satin Mood by Francis Kurkdjian, then you will fall in love with No.12. The difference, however, will be as if you have moved from a luxury Mercedes to a Bentley.

When wearing this perfume, it is impossible to be unnoticed and no to charm the surroundings. No.12 is simply overwhelmingly beautiful. Am I surprised with that? Absolutely no. After all, it is Puredistance.

Top Notes: Bergamot oil, Mandarin oil, Cardamom oil, Coriander oil,
Ylang Ylang oil, Narcissus abs

Middle Notes: Jasmin abs, Rose oil, Geranium oil, Lily of the Valley, Orange
Blossom, Osmanthus abs,Orris butter, Heliotrope, Hedione HC

Base Notes: Vetyver, Sandalwood oil, Patchouli oil, Oak moss, Tonka,
Ambrette note, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musks.

Release year: 2021

Composed by: Nathalie Feisthauer

My rating: smell: 6.0 / uniqueness: 4.0/ durability: 5.0 / projection: 5.0->4.0

M.Micallef „EdenFalls” – the scent of paradise

Located in the famous Grasse in Provence, the perfume brand M. Micallef is already a veteran on the niche perfume market. Run by the charming couple Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman, it combines beautiful bottles designed by Martine with equally beautiful content, which Jean-Claude Astier and Geoffrey Nejman have been working tirelessly for years on.

Martine Micallef, Geoffrey Nejman

This year has brought the premiere of a new fragrance from the Jewel collection. EdenFalls is another – after DesirToxic, Osaito and Akowa (and for some time also Royal Vintage) – aroma closed in a characteristic hand-painted and brushed bottle. Definitely fresher and – generally speaking – more pleasant to the nose than the otherwise great, but more distinctive predecessor. It is also the first of them so clearly addressed to both sexes.

And indeed, EdenFalls is a perfectly composed unisex, combining floral notes of jasmine and neroli with a citrus-woody opening and a surprising gourmand creamy base in which vanilla stands out on patchouli, musk and moss.

I would describe the top note as rather feminine, a bit candy-like, ambiguous, citrus-fruity-flowery and charming at the same time which is an immanent feature of M. Micallef’s perfumes. Over time, it reveals its more unisex facet, thanks to spices and woody notes. The base is – happily – the prettiest phase of this fragrance. Very sensual thanks to vanilla, patchouli and musk, but not in a clearly feminine way.

The perfumer managed to find the right balance so that EdenFalls would not intimidate the gentlemen and at the same time embolden the ladies.

In terms of parameters, the Micallef never disappoints. It is true also for EdenFalls. Projection is strong but not overwhelming, lasting power exceeds 8 hours. I smell it pleasantly on myself for a really long time. In other words – no reasons to complain here.

EdenFalls smells like spring and summer, it contains a lot of sunshine and joy. According to the authors’ intentions, it is to be associated with paradise, a sense of happiness and bliss. And that’s what it is. Very, very positive and optimistic, like Martine Micallef herself, whom I once met. It definitely illuminates the dark times we have recently lived in and gives us hope for a better and happier future.

Top Notes: pink pepper, bergamot, tangerine

Middle Notes: coriander, jasmine, neroli

Base Notes: mousse, musk, patchouli, vanilla

Release year: 2021

Perfumer: Jean-Claude Astier/ Geoffrey Nejman

My rating: smell: 5.0 / uniqueness: 5,0/ durability: 5.0 / projection: 4.5->3.5

Olivier Durbano „ARAM” – When the Stones are Light

If we accept the key of matching perfumes to the personality, character and style of a person, and to some extent to his profession, then Olivier Durbano’s fragrances (without exception) have always suited the minds of humanists, artists, philosophers, freelancers and people generally sensitive and spiritual.

Olivier himself is such a person: an artist (primarily a jeweler), perfumer, poet, sensitive and spiritual. This undoubtedly influences the nature of the perfumes he creates. I could not image a manager or politician “dressed” in smoky incense Black Tourmaline or terpenic incense SpeM PetraM just as I cannot imagine a lawyer wearing fruity incense Amethyst or a doctor wearing rose incense Pink Quartz rose-incense. Incense everywhere, I know. Olivier’s hallmark, also present in his latest work.

Following this way of thinking, Durbano’s latest work (already 16th!), ARAM, is the first fragrance that, in my opinion, can be used by a corporate employee, manager, politician or attorney without causing dissonance on the odor-personality-job line. I have intentionally mentioned only the male professions, because in my opinion ARAM is a masculine perfume.

ARAM was inspired by Olivier’s first trip abroad to Syria at the age of 20. This trip was engraved in Olivier’s memory for good and made a deep impression on him. As he says, “Syria has never left me since then“. The smell is a peculiar tribute to this beautiful country and its inhabitants, unfortunately affected by numerous tragedies.

The fragrance is accompanied by a poem written by Olivier himself in which we read among others:

Twenty years, first journey away, 

A first flight, a wonderful feeling on the plane, touching the clouds, going back where I’ve never been…

a first experience, guided by Providence, which takes me to a dream country…

which from the first moments will be a land of original heart, a recognized land, images, faces, words, music, smells… 

Re connection to the Roots and fertile germ of a forgotten Humanity

Olivier Durbano

ARAM surprised me in a very positive way, mainly because it is a nice change from very difficult and dark fragrances that Olivier has served us in the last 2-3 years (and he releases perfumes regularly every year at the same, autumn time).

ARAM smells much easier and more graceful. And I can smell associations with other perfumes. I always associate a new perfume with something I already know. I usually find related scents. In this case, I can say with full conviction that ARAM combines a lot from such fragrances as Jewel for him M. Micallef, African Leather MEMO Parfums and – logically, though more distant – Terre d’Hermes, especially in the EDP version and also Montale Red Vetiver. What is interesting, I have never compared Olivier’s perfumes with such ease with other perfumes (including mainstream ones!). This proves that this time Olivier entered a more popular (though still niche) olfactory area. This is probably one of the easiest Durbano perfumes to wear. And it suits me very much, especially since its character is very close to my taste.

The essential trio of ingredients that define the character of ARAM consists of grapefruit in the opening, cedar and vetiver in the base. They are the reasons why I put this fragrance in a row next to the above-mentioned perfumes, known and liked. Everything else here gives the fragrance an individual color in which you can feel Olivier’s hand and thanks to which ARAM gets original and distinctive. First of all the smell of the green tea – rose duo present in the heart which creates a clearly perceptible tea accent. Then the obligatory incense – here in the form of a whole series of incense resins: olibanum, elemi, myrrh, deepened with cistus which beautifully complement the woody theme without dominating the fragrance. The list of ingredients is completed by acacia and the mysterious Ammoniac incense, the smell of which I have no idea.

ARAM is by far the best Olivier Durbano fragrance since Lapis Lazuli (2016) and so far the best fragrance in the One Alchemy Collection, in my opinion. This time the perfumer took up a well-known and previously realized topic, but he did it in his own and very convincing way. So much so that the ARAM bottle will probably get into in my collection sooner or later.

Top Notes: grapefruit, elemi, olibanum, artemisia, cistus

Middle Notes: green tea, Damask rose, gum ammoniac incense, cassie, tobacco 

Base Notes: cedar wood, balms (benzoin, myrrh, olibanum), vetiver

Release year: 2020

Author/ Nose: Olivier Durbano

My rating: smell: 5.0 / uniqueness: 4,0/ durability: 4.5 / projection: 4.0->3.5

Puredistance RUBIKONA – iconic elegance

The launch of the new Puredistance perfume is always an exciting event for all those who appreciate uncompromising quality and truly luxurious style. Add to this the perfumer Cecile Zarokian, who has already become known as the creator of fragrant masterpieces, including perfect SHEIDUNA, and the new creation of the brand with the intriguing name RUBIKONA must arouse your interest.

RUBIKONA. Ruby icon. Iconic ruby. Rubicon – a symbol of impassable border. Symbolic name of many meanings. Exactly – the name. An extremely important element in perfumery, but unfortunately treated with neglect by many. The name of the perfume must be intriguing and suggestive. It’s good if it has a second, hidden meaning, if it is ambiguous. It must activate fantasies, build up expectations, switch on the mind and the senses. RUBIKONA fits perfectly into this convention

The core of my review will be one key thought regarding perfume in general. In my opinion, creating a perfume is all about composing a unique concoction – with help of the ingredients that build notes and chords – which is more than just the sum of its components. So that the recipient of the perfume smells not so much the main ingredients as the fragrance as a whole.

This synergy of the ingredients is an element that a perfumer should strive for.

But this is actually the greatest art and probably the most difficult thing in this craft. It requires a huge amount of work and, talent and – last but not least – certain amount of luck. Getting the synergy is almost a guarantee of creating a valuable perfume. Whether it becomes a masterpiece is determined by an additional conditions: uniqueness and thus rememberability as well as the recognizability of the aroma.

RUBIKONA – as I can confirm after many tests – has all the features of a masterpiece.

Let us have a look at the officially given list of notes. We see nothing more than what perfumery has got us used to. Moreover, it seems to be extremely traditional: a basket of citrus fruits in the opening, a classic bouquet of floral notes in the heart, woody notes in the base. The sign of our times are enigmatic sunny or creamy notes, but this is actually a perfumer’s poetry. In reality they are chords made of specific aromamolecules. In other words – a formula like many others. But really? Let’s smell it.

The synergy of the ingredients and notes is evident from the first molecules reaching the nose. The aroma is initially fresh thanks to citruses but immediately with a creamy-floral background that gradually fades into the foreground and reveals itself on the skin in the heart, taking on a warmer, sunny, floral-cream character. The accord is absolutely integral and none of the ingredients stands out, although I have the impression that the orange blossom plays here a key role in giving this almost fruity bloom. Over time, other floral notes shows with Ylang at the fore and the carnation is giving a subtle spiciness. Base chord is equally coherent and above all very sensual. Its floral-woody-gourmandy character has been achieved primarily by iris, patchouli and notes of cream and vanilla. At this stage RUBIKONA becomes less playfull but more serious, elegant and refined. The last chord lasts for hours and smells almost constant. It is the quintessence and the olfactive signature of RUBIKONA. Unique and easy to remember with its sensuality and a kind of hypnotic depth.

Cecile Zarokian by Robin Keupnik

The high concentration of the fragrant essence (28%) guarantees the smooth development of the perfume on the skin and its durability for many hours. The intensity of the fragrance is kept elegant and not overwhelming. It leaves a rather short but distinct trail.

RUBIKONA smells definitely feminine, sensual, unique and – despite many traditional notes – very modern. It has been composed harmoniously and “safely”. I cannot imagine anyone who would not like it.
At the same time it is – and I would like to emphasize this, as I have not mentioned it before – an elegant, stylish perfume. An ornament of women’s skin and a complement to an elegant female outfit. This is the hallmark of all Puredistance perfumes and in this respect RUBIKONA is no exception. It seems to perfectly fit into the brand’s collection.

Due to the combination of classic content with modern elements and a modern form RUBIKONA has all the potential to become a brand’s bestseller. I wish it Jan Vos and the entire Puredistance team.

Top Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Mandarin

Middle Notes: Rose, Iris, Ylang, Clove, Orange blossom,
Creamy notes

Base Notes: Patchouli, Cedarwood, Vanilla, Solar notes,
Musk.

Release year: 2020

Nose: Cecile Zarokian/ Jan Ewoud Vos

My rating: smell: 5.0 / uniqueness: 5.0/ durability: 5.0 / projection: 4.0

Puredistance “Gold” – the golden essence

Puredistance has just reminded of itself for the second time this year. Introduced in spring AENOTUS with its surprisingly durable and refreshing note beautifully combined with the summer heat. Autumn brings us a perfume with a completely different character and a very autumnal name. Gold which – as explains Jan Ewoud Vos, the owner and artistic director of the brand – is the last element of the colorful trilogy after Black and White. This perfume is unique in many respects…

Jan Ewoud Vos began working on this perfume in March 2017. He contacted a well-known perfumer who has never worked for Puredistance before. The process of composing Gold lasted over a year, but ultimately none of the proposed versions convinced Jan to publish them. He decided to discontinue work and returned to the subject after a few months, in October 2018 – this time in the company of Antoine Lie. The perfumer who did already many excellent Puredistance perfumes: Black, White, AENOTUS and Warsaw). This time work went very quickly and already in June 2019 the fragrance was ready.

Antoine Lie had complete freedom when selecting the ingredients for this perfume. There was although one condition. They had to be of the highest quality selected without compromise. Just as always in case of Puredistance. Many perfumers would be overwhelmed by such opportunities but Antoine Lie did his job great. The source of exceptional ingredients – L’Atelier Français des Matières – is located in the French Archamps.

The inspiration for the creation of Gold was “Golden Modriaan,” as Jan Eoud Vos calls this cubist graphic. It mainly presents various shades of gold. It reflects the timeless concept of gold elegance that naturally harmonizes with the surroundings. Elegant shades of gold – differing in intensity and warmth – are harmoniously arranged here in a well-balanced pattern.

How does Gold smell? Very adequate for the name. We associate gold with value and wealth and – naturally – with luxury. And this is how Gold smells. Very rich, with excellent ingredients and very saturated (36% of the extract!), which can be clearly smelled. The perfume shimmers with various shades and delights with many layers. In terms of character it is an oriental perfume composed in such a way that it has the characteristics of a perfect unisex. It is a combination of spices (pepper that beautifully opens this fragrance, cinnamon, clove) with a noble jasmine absolute, surrounded by balsams, resins and woods (including labdanum, myrrh, styrax, benzoin) and a culinary accent of vanilla and tonka.

Gold is a type of a fragrance that can be known to anyone who has already encountered luxury perfumery (early Amouage or Roja Parfums), except that its form is here – typical of Lie’s style – compact and modern. The composition is classic, but its character is absolutely contemporary. The fragrance – when it settles on the skin – beautifully projects and gradually transforms into a characteristic signature that appears on the skin several dozen minutes after the application. It is a surprising, great and memorable chord, full of depth. Durability and projection are not subject to discussion here. The former is all-day, the latter is on a balanced but significant level.

Gold wears with great pleasure and a sense of dealing with real luxury. And it is not just an empty slogan. Because really, how else can a perfume smell of luxury if not like Gold ?

Gold impresses and Puredistance once again confirms its unique position on the perfume market – as a truly luxury brand, not going for quality shortcuts and offering the highest fragrance experience. Gold is a scented neoclassical masterpiece. Dealing with such a perfume is the highest pleasure for a connoisseur.

Top notes: green mandarin, bergamot, pink pepper, rosemary, clove

Heart notes: jasmine absolute, cistus absolute, geranium, cinnamon absolute

Base notes: styrax, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, vanilla, tonka, castoreum, vetiver

Release year: 2019

Nose: Antoine Lie/ Jan Ewoud Vos

My rating: smell: 6.0 / durability: 5.0 / projection: 4.5-> 4.0

Puredistance „AENOTUS” – sensual freshness of the southern wind

It took the perfumer Antoine Lie almost three years to reach the fragrant place where Jan Ewoud Vos wanted to go. During the work on the new perfume Puredistance, both creators repeatedly reached the creative wall. The vision of the owner of the Puredistance brand turned out to be so difficult. To materialize it the perfumer had to increase the concentration of the fragrance to  unprecedented nowadays 48%, which means that AENOTUS is technically an extremely concentrated perfume.

Originally conceived as a signature perfume for Jan Ewoud Vos, AENOTUS was supposed to be the perfect combination of refreshing freshness with sensual depth. The smell was – according to assumptions – not to dissapear after a fresh opening, but to remain on the skin for a long time in the form of a sensual skin-scent. After the countless attempts to complete these assumptions, Vos decided to include AEONTUS in the Puredistance offer. That’s how it happened and the latest fragrance of one of the last truly luxury perfume houses was launched this very month.

The opening of the scent is sparkling, refreshing citrus with an accent shifted to its green side.

My first associations ran towards the essence of bergamot and lime, but – to my surprise – neither one nor the other in the official list of notes will be found. So probably the ingredients that build the heart (above all the essence of green currant buds and petit grain – the essence of the orange tree leaves) add this crisp, green character. The refreshing nature of AEONOTUS is certainly influenced by cleverly added mint. This citrus-green accord turns on the skin into a very pleasant signature. Deepened by patchouli and oakmoss in the base and fixed by a solid dose of musks (which appear in the scent quite early, because just a few minutes after the application, just to later left where they belong – in the background) it sits on the skin for a very long time, slowly warming up and developing into the sensual, musk-wood-moss base. A bit of a chypre one.

For one thing man must be prepared when testing AENOTUS. It’s a perfume consisting essentially of two acts, the first of which is shorter and expressive, and the other is long-lasting and quiet. That one lasts for hours, but has a very subtle, close-to-the-skin character.

I am almost sure that the fragrance will be even more appreciated during warm or hot weather, because of its construction, which should not only resist high temperatures but also allow the full aroma to bloom.

Jan Ewoud Vos

Jan Ewoud Vos notes, and I fully agree with that, that AENOTUS stays incredibly long and almost unchanged on clothing. His signature fresh-sensual chord seems to last there forever …

At the end, a few sentences about the intriguing name, which in the first moment can resemble to all the fans of the male perfumery a masculine bestseller of recent years…).

AENOTUS took its name from Aeolus – the mythical god of winds, which brings coolness and refreshment to Southern Europe. In AENOTUS cool and crisp notes are combined with the delicate, sensual warmth of this geographical region.

Despite the rather traditional content, AENOTUS certainly distinguishes itself with its form, saturation and intensity and above-average durability (after all, 48% concentration is already the real scented Himalayas) and in fact a rare combination of freshness and depth, refreshment and sensuality. It adds new content to the Puredistance perfume offer, while continuing the traditional quality for this house. It is – as usual in the case of Puredistance – a proposal for the most demanding scent lovers.

main accords: citrusy, green, musky

head notes: orange, tangerine, lemon, yuzu

heart notes: mint, black currant buds, petit grain

base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, musks

rok premiery: 2019

nos: Antoine Lie

rating: scent: 5,0/  long lastiness 5,0/ projection/ sillage: 4,0 –> 3,0

Parfum d’Empire „Le Cri de la Lumière” – cry of light, smile of a woman

The latest perfume proposal from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato – Le Cri de la Lumière – is a very feminine and sensual perfume, at the same time surprisingly modern as for the rather classic style of this talented perfumer. It also amazes me with its unusual construction and delights with distinct evolution on the skin.

Le Cri de La Lumière (Cry of light – what a poetic name!) is made of five essential notes/ ingredients. Intro owes its unusual sound of ambertte seed known as vegetable musk. This essence from the seeds of Indian hibiscus (Abelmoschus moschatus) has an unusual, slightly botanical, slightly musky and at the same time subtly fruity character, which can be smelled in its full splendor in Peruvian Ambrette from Essenze Zegna series. Also here, this note is expressive and smells very natural. Forwarding it to the head phase of the fragrance was a rare and brave step. This ingredient usually builds a perfume base – like musk – deepening and fixing the main note. Here it plays its main role at the beginning what can make the opening of Le Cri de la Lumière surprising and quite demanding. We immediately know that this is a perfume addressed to more sophisticated users, as is the entire Parfum d’Empire offer.

For an untrained nose, this aroma may be an obstacle that cannot be overcome. Well, that would be a shame, because Le Cri de La Lumière – like a well-written book – reveals its next chapters over time. The further, the more beautiful they are and lead to a truly charming finale.

Ambrette has been combined here with a very natural note of iris that matches it naturally. This extremely precious ingredient adds seriousness and sophisticated elegance to the initial phase. Iris is unique in its kind, refined, powdery-floral-earthy. In a word – amazing, immediately introducing the aura of chic, refined elegance and distance. After next two quarters nostrils begin – quite unexpectedly – smell the aroma in its provenance as classical as the iris but given in a much more contemporary way. From now on, Le Cri de La Lumière gradually loses his serious face and begins to smile flirtatiously…

Here, in its heart a beautiful and stunningly fragrant Turkish rose was planted. It was then poured with a large portion of musk on a subtle wood foundation, approaching to the signature of one of my absolutely favorite women’s perfumes – For Her from Narciso Rodriguez! Say what you want, but this work by Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdjian is a genius perfume and completely timeless in its overwhelming femininity! It is true that Corticchiato presented this wonderful, extremely feminine and sensual chord in a slightly less spectacular and more cautious manner, but still very beautiful.

If someone did not survive ambrette and iris intro, she/ he will not be lucky enough to experience the beauty of the heart of this scent. Therefore – I beg you – do not judge this perfume after the head notes or even after the first 3-4 quarters, because in this case that would be an essential error!

Le Cri de La Lumière was created for you to slowly, step by step, contemplate and admire its changing aroma. The aforementioned charming rose-wood-musky chord persists on the skin for quite a long time, slowly fading out, not being, however, for a single moment clamorous or intrusive. Elegance and moderation is here above everything.

Le Cri de La Lumière enchanted me. This perfectly designed perfume contains various faces of femininity – from the somewhat wild, uncouth, through proud and intimidatingly beautiful to the romantic, passionate, sensual and smiling. The last one is in its majority in Le Cri de La Lumière. And that’s probably why I like this perfume so much…

main notes: ambrette seed, irys, turkish rose, musk, woods

 

launched in: 2017

perfumer: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

“Lapis Lazuli” by Olivier Durbano – the scent of ultramarine

This is the twelfth stone in a fragrant interpretation of Olivier Durbano, to the enjoyment of the fans of this extraordinary artist’s talent, including me personally. Many times I have already highlighted the uniqueness of the Parfums de Pierres Poemes collection. Every perfume lover who enjoys original and sublime beauty of perfume should know it. Period.

This time the inspiration was Lapis Lazuli – a stone with a beautiful blue color. The word “blue” not entirely reflects the unusual color of the stone, which was widely used in the Renaissance to obtain extremely valuable pigment – natural ultramarine. This inspiration, of course, is reflected in the beautiful color of the perfume.

Connoisseurs of precious stones assign to Lapis Lazuli mental properties as: supporting in the fight against melancholy, positive impact on the serenity, harmony in dealing with other people, a sense of security. Lapis Lazuli is to strengthen willpower, concentration, intuition, self-confidence, creativity, courage and leadership.

Lapis Lazuli is Durbano I like the most. Cool, mineral, mystical and absolutely different from everything.

The initial smell is a combination of dry woody wormwood (well known to us in a very expressive and raw edition in French Lover by Frederic Malle), with coniferous cypress, tea tree oil and a hint of green herbal thyme spiced up by clove. Rose oxide gives these components a not exaggerated, but clearly perceptible rosy-metallic glow (a stronger and more rose centered one can be found in the phenomenal Opus X Amouage.) So the oxide imprints its mark, but not in an extent to deal here with the aroma of rose, but only with its metallic green memory. The base has woody character and it follows the heart in a very natural way, while still maintaining the main theme of the scent. This is important, because according to me Lapis Lazuli smells at the end almost the same as in the beginning, and the occurring changes – although present – are minimal.

The perfume projects very nicely, without exaggeration but in a noticeable way, sticking on the skin for over eight hours, which completes my high rating. According to me, this is one of the most interesting and one of the best fragrances in Olivier Durbano’s collection. The longer I test it, the more it delights me… Bravo Olivier!

top notes: wormwood, cypress, rose oxide, cloves

heart notes: thyme, wheat, iris

base notes: vetiver, cedar, amber, elemi, tolu balsam, musk.

launched in: 2016

perfumer: Olivier Durbano

 

 

Puredistance SHEIDUNA – a marriage of oriental sensuality and Parisian elegance

Is perfume luxury a term that still means anything nowadays?

At a time when brands considered to be a luxury are releasing sometimes several fragrances a year, often confirming the age-old rule that more does not mean any better (and actually it is usually an opposite), the creator of the Puredistance brand Jan Ewoud Vos since its inception cares about it to be seen as a synonym for true luxury. It is not only about the juice itself, which is in that case always of the highest quality, but also about everything that comes with it – from an unusual bottle, through luxury accessories, limited distribution, respectively high price to the frequency with which the brand launches a new fragrance. Puredistance launches it once a year or less and only because of that fact the brand is one of the few exceptions. Recall: in 2007 there was the first perfume Puredistance I. In 2010, the brand presented two scents: female Antonia and male Puredistance M. In 2012 appeared Opardu, in 2013 Black and in 2015 – White. For 2016 an unique launch was announced …

Admittedly, the launch of the new fragrance was this time extremely carefully prepared and carried out. The advertising campaign served in the electronic media long before the premiere resembled campaign of a new film by a famous director. At the beginning, it was only known that Puredistance had been preparing a new fragrance. With time, the company revealed its name giving its letters gradually one by one. Once we had learned that its name was SHEIDUNA, representatives of the brand became literally silent.

Company was dosing the tension to such an extent that even during this year’s Esxence trade fair in Milan its representatives refused to disclose any details about the announced autumn release. Even the fact to whom this time Jan Ewoud Vos entrusted to compose the perfume remained a mistery…

Jan Ewoud Vos came up with the name of the perfume combining words SHE (She) and Dune (Dune). It reflects the nature of the scent, which is a combination of Parisian elegance and oriental sensuality.

After some time the name of the perfumer (Cecile Zarokian) was revealed, then SHEIDUNA  was presented in New York before the official launch, where it provoked positive reactions. Zarokian herself participated in the presentation. The fact that it was she who translated  Jan Ewoud Vos’ vision into a mixture of fragrant molecules thrilled perfume industry and critics. Cecile has been very creative in recent years and with SHEIDUNA she once again proved that he has a lot to say in perfumery and that despite of a relatively short career, she have already worked out here own style. Her fragrances are often works of perfume art (Epic Woman Amouage, Mon Nom Est Rouge Majda Bekkali, Tango Masque Milano, Aqua Sextius Jul et Mad, Patchouliful Laboratorio Olfattivo, to mention just the best).

Work on SHEIDUNA lasted about a year, and the world premiere took place in September 2016 during the Pitti Fragranze event in Florence. According to representatives of the brand the aroma created there a real sensation. Reactions of the audience had been captured on numerous pictures:

SHEIDUNA smells very natural from the first to the very last second. The top chord appears as an aromatic blend of citruses (mostly lemon and tangerine) reinforced with aldehydes and juicy green black currant. Under that fresh aroma gradually emerges the heart of the fragrance, built with a key essence – that of Bulgarian rose. It has been traditionally combined here geranium and patchouli and subtly spiced up with cloves. The heart is at first rosy-spicy, but with the passage of time it turns into a very sensual and very complex aroma, where rose is still present, but it changes its surroundings. The smell is getting warmer and the nostrils begin to smell a scent which is a kind of Cecile Zarokian’s signature when it comes to floral-oriental aesthetics – a blend of amber, resins, vanilla absolute, Tonka and musk with a floral dominant (here it is obviously rose). The effect is similar to what we smell in Mon Nom Est Rouge for Majda Bekkali and – to some extent – also Tango Masque Milano. SHEIDUNA, however, is in its nature more balanced, harmonious and subtle. Less experimental and more classic. Goes off the skin very slowly, being a long-lasting skin scent where traces of rose are attached to the skin with a solid dose of musk. Durability is here also a result of a very high concentration: with 27% SHEIDUNA is basically an extract de parfum.

SHEIDUNA projects noticeably, but subtly, which also makes it different from the previously mentioned fragrances composed by Cecile which power is not always acceptable for everyone. Honestly though, I expected SHEIDUNA to smell somewhat more robust and intense. On the other hand, if I remember other Puredistance fragrances correctly, none of them belong to the titans of power, and the brand apparently prefers scents that are not olfactory bombs, which of course does not diminish their value at all.

In my opinion SHEIDUNA is – in spite of a female targeting – a unisex scent with just slightly female inclination. Devotees of oriental scents of both sexes can fall in love with it. As an oriental fragrance with a rose dominant SHEIDUNA is a very well done addition to the Puredistance’s scented offer.

Will SHEIDUNA meet the expectations of perfume connoisseurs, as was the case in New York and Florence? We will probably find out soon. The fragrance is now hitting the shelves of the stores cooperating with Puredistance.

P.S. My wife is getting a lot of complements while wearing it which doesn’t surprise me at all as it smells really magnificent on her. 

main ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetiver, patchouli, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musk

launched in: 2016

perfumer: Cecile Zarokian

 

 

Chanel Les Exclusifs „Coromandel”

Coromandel refers to Chinese lacquered decorative folding screens of which mademoiselle Coco Chanel was a big enthusiast and collector (and which came to Europe from China in XVII century through ports located on Indian Coromandel cost). Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake created this remarkable scent in 2007 and added it to the boutique and exclusive Les Exclusifs collection. Of course, the inspiration lies here only in the name as the scent does not consist of any wooden, paint or varnish notes, which I myself consider as an advantage.

I remember my first reaction to this smell – I was entranced. I saw a movie about Coco Chanel the next day featuring lovely Audrey Tautou and at the same time I tested the scent on my skin. The experience was exceptional. Synaesthesia worked perfectly. Till this day I am spellbound to it as Coromandel is really a special perfume and despite my proficiency it is really hard to describe it accurately enough. I will try my best nonetheless – still, this is what this blog is actually about.

Coromandel belongs to a woody-balsamic family of scents in which the main role plays patchouli together with resin (benzoin) and incense (olibanum) notes, accompanied by a subtle note of white chocolate. The effect of this composition – made with true perfumery mastery – is utterly resplendent. Patchouli is very charming in itself and can do perfumery wonders if used with moderation and intent. It likes to dominate the whole composition but it also has one magical property: despite its characteristic, bit mouldy, camphor, sour-earthy notes, it perfectly pairs, as it might sometimes seem, with uncommon partners (such as for example caramel ethyl maltol – thanks to which – in simple words – chocolate was achieved in famous Angel by T. Mugler). Polge and Sheldrake took this bit more culinary course but they achieved the balance, they soothed the patchouli oil sharp character with excellent quality resins and balms and – as I think – vanilla. The accord of white chocolate will cause palpitations to every perfumery aesthete and stands as a great counterpoint for patchouli. Luckily Coromandel does not boil over with sweetness. The authors did not overdo with anything apart from exaggerated beauty – this I cannot deny.

 

 

Coromandel has this “something” in it. Truly not many perfumes cause this kind of reaction in me. Maybe it simply reminds me of something that I really like or maybe it is just that perfect. The scent evolves slowly, over time the dominant patchouli note retreats, making space for amber note (but what kind of a note!). The patchouli note can still be smelled somewhere in the background though. Not much is happening here but that is good as what we have is absolutely sensational. Without any doubts this is the most beautiful scent with dominant patchouli I know and at the same time I have ever had a chance to wear and test. Absolutely top-end product.

In the Internet Coromandel is compared to Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens, the difference between those two is that in the first one we find white chocolate note and in the other one dark chocolate note. I cannot say much about this as I cannot remember Serge’s composition that well (I tested its micro-sample long long time ago). Still, taking into consideration fact that Christopher Sheladrake took part in the creation of Coromandel, those two scents might indeed be quite similar. I will check that soon enough.
When it comes to quality and usage properties, Coromandel proves perfect here as well. The strength, projection, sillage and finally the lasting-power. Same as it was with Sycomore, we deal with a unisex type of a perfume. Personally I think they are even more for men than for women.

I waited with this review for a long time, being abashed with Coromandel’s beauty. This scent is perfect in every way. It smells luxury – that is for sure, at the same time it stands as an example of quality and moderation. For me everything is ideal here. People more familiar with Channel’s exclusive series name Coromandel as the best one from the whole series. I myself can only compare it to Sycomore and can say that if Polge/ Sheldrake had used in the same brilliant way vetiver as they did with patchouli in Coromandel, surely I would be down on my knees and stay like that from the delight. I must admit that this is what I actually expected as I put my hands on Coromandel first. On the other hand I would not like to diminish Sycomore as it is a great perfume as well.

Wearing Coromandel is an authentic pleasure. Pity that the availability of this scent is so limited, even though that we live in the era of Internet shopping and absolutely no boundaries whatsoever. Well almost…

 

main notes: patchouli, white chocolate, benzoin, vanilla

launched in: 2007

perfumers: Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake