Puredistance No.12 – a dream come true

About a year ago I shared here my impressions about the beautiful perfume called RUBIKONA by Puredistance. It was then that I found out that the brand intends to introduce another perfume in about a year, which will conclude the cycle of 12 fragrances that make up the complete collection. As if to emphasize this number, the newest fragrance by Puredistance was simply named No.12 and it is special not only for this reason.

Usually it is a perfume brand that asks a perfumer to collaborate and compose a perfume. Most often a perfumer, who has many ready-made compositions in his drawers that have not yet seen the light of day, proposes one of them to the client. Then he chooses one and either does not change anything or changes are made. It also happens so that the customer-perfumer duo works on the fragrance from scratch (such as, for example, Frederic Malle). But it is rare for a world class perfumer to express willingness to cooperate with a brand. And this was the case here. Nathalie Feisthauer (known for composing Cartier Must Pour Homme, Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Versace Blonde among others) passed through a mutual friend a message to Jan Ewoud Vos – founder and head of Puredistance – with the information that it would be a dream come true for her, if she could work on a perfume for Puredistance.

Jan recalls that during the meeting Nathalie introduced to him several ready-made compositions but it was the first one – tentatively called Gold Taffeta – that made such an impact on him, that his choice was obvious.

Knowing the nature of Puredistance as a brand but most of all knowing the aesthetics of its fragrances and comparing it to No.12, I am sure that Feisthauer either did a thorough research or had an amazing intuition. She chose a composition that fits perfectly into the world of Puredistance: luxurious, rich, abundant, slightly baroque and of the highest quality. So she suggested perfectly and Ewoud Vos choose it right on the spot.

No.12 is the essence of Puredistance, no doubt here. A beautiful rich chypre-oriental fragrance made of many aromatic absolutes, very complex and multi-layered as well as contemporary.

As usual in Puredistance the fragrance is very concentrated (25% – perfume extract) and so complex that it is extremely difficult to distinguish any dominant or prominent notes / chords in it. Its character is shaped by an extremely rich bouquet of flower essences (looking at the official list of notes, we can find here virtually all possible floral ingredient), which has a nobility given by the iris butter. This overwhelming floral-ness is set on an oriental-woody base accord, where tonka and vanilla set the tone, while the woody notes add depth and body. And there is also patchouli which – if skillfully used, as it is here – adds alot of sensuality. The prelude of the fragrance is decorated with a mixture of citrus and spices with a sensual rather than spicy character (cardamom and coriander). I appreciate the craftsmanship of Nathalie Feisthauer. Composing such a harmonious perfume out of so many such intense ingredients – it is an extremely difficult art in my opinion, especially since many of the ingredients used here are of a natural origin and are usually very complex on their own rights.

No.12 is a rather traditional feminine perfume when it comes to its structure and composition. It is an oriental chypre, but with a contemporary character. It is dense and enveloping, elegant, sophisticated and seems to be a great one for an evening out. It is super chic like most Puredistance perfumes.

This perfume is a class on its own and it is really hard to compare it to any other perfume because it is a bit like comparing a Bentley or a Rolls Royce to any other luxury car. However, to bring its smell closer to those who will not have the opportunity to test it, I write diplomatically: if you love Oud Satin Mood by Francis Kurkdjian, then you will fall in love with No.12. The difference, however, will be as if you have moved from a luxury Mercedes to a Bentley.

When wearing this perfume, it is impossible to be unnoticed and no to charm the surroundings. No.12 is simply overwhelmingly beautiful. Am I surprised with that? Absolutely no. After all, it is Puredistance.

Top Notes: Bergamot oil, Mandarin oil, Cardamom oil, Coriander oil,
Ylang Ylang oil, Narcissus abs

Middle Notes: Jasmin abs, Rose oil, Geranium oil, Lily of the Valley, Orange
Blossom, Osmanthus abs,Orris butter, Heliotrope, Hedione HC

Base Notes: Vetyver, Sandalwood oil, Patchouli oil, Oak moss, Tonka,
Ambrette note, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Musks.

Release year: 2021

Composed by: Nathalie Feisthauer

My rating: smell: 6.0 / uniqueness: 4.0/ durability: 5.0 / projection: 5.0->4.0

Puredistance RUBIKONA – iconic elegance

The launch of the new Puredistance perfume is always an exciting event for all those who appreciate uncompromising quality and truly luxurious style. Add to this the perfumer Cecile Zarokian, who has already become known as the creator of fragrant masterpieces, including perfect SHEIDUNA, and the new creation of the brand with the intriguing name RUBIKONA must arouse your interest.

RUBIKONA. Ruby icon. Iconic ruby. Rubicon – a symbol of impassable border. Symbolic name of many meanings. Exactly – the name. An extremely important element in perfumery, but unfortunately treated with neglect by many. The name of the perfume must be intriguing and suggestive. It’s good if it has a second, hidden meaning, if it is ambiguous. It must activate fantasies, build up expectations, switch on the mind and the senses. RUBIKONA fits perfectly into this convention

The core of my review will be one key thought regarding perfume in general. In my opinion, creating a perfume is all about composing a unique concoction – with help of the ingredients that build notes and chords – which is more than just the sum of its components. So that the recipient of the perfume smells not so much the main ingredients as the fragrance as a whole.

This synergy of the ingredients is an element that a perfumer should strive for.

But this is actually the greatest art and probably the most difficult thing in this craft. It requires a huge amount of work and, talent and – last but not least – certain amount of luck. Getting the synergy is almost a guarantee of creating a valuable perfume. Whether it becomes a masterpiece is determined by an additional conditions: uniqueness and thus rememberability as well as the recognizability of the aroma.

RUBIKONA – as I can confirm after many tests – has all the features of a masterpiece.

Let us have a look at the officially given list of notes. We see nothing more than what perfumery has got us used to. Moreover, it seems to be extremely traditional: a basket of citrus fruits in the opening, a classic bouquet of floral notes in the heart, woody notes in the base. The sign of our times are enigmatic sunny or creamy notes, but this is actually a perfumer’s poetry. In reality they are chords made of specific aromamolecules. In other words – a formula like many others. But really? Let’s smell it.

The synergy of the ingredients and notes is evident from the first molecules reaching the nose. The aroma is initially fresh thanks to citruses but immediately with a creamy-floral background that gradually fades into the foreground and reveals itself on the skin in the heart, taking on a warmer, sunny, floral-cream character. The accord is absolutely integral and none of the ingredients stands out, although I have the impression that the orange blossom plays here a key role in giving this almost fruity bloom. Over time, other floral notes shows with Ylang at the fore and the carnation is giving a subtle spiciness. Base chord is equally coherent and above all very sensual. Its floral-woody-gourmandy character has been achieved primarily by iris, patchouli and notes of cream and vanilla. At this stage RUBIKONA becomes less playfull but more serious, elegant and refined. The last chord lasts for hours and smells almost constant. It is the quintessence and the olfactive signature of RUBIKONA. Unique and easy to remember with its sensuality and a kind of hypnotic depth.

Cecile Zarokian by Robin Keupnik

The high concentration of the fragrant essence (28%) guarantees the smooth development of the perfume on the skin and its durability for many hours. The intensity of the fragrance is kept elegant and not overwhelming. It leaves a rather short but distinct trail.

RUBIKONA smells definitely feminine, sensual, unique and – despite many traditional notes – very modern. It has been composed harmoniously and “safely”. I cannot imagine anyone who would not like it.
At the same time it is – and I would like to emphasize this, as I have not mentioned it before – an elegant, stylish perfume. An ornament of women’s skin and a complement to an elegant female outfit. This is the hallmark of all Puredistance perfumes and in this respect RUBIKONA is no exception. It seems to perfectly fit into the brand’s collection.

Due to the combination of classic content with modern elements and a modern form RUBIKONA has all the potential to become a brand’s bestseller. I wish it Jan Vos and the entire Puredistance team.

Top Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Mandarin

Middle Notes: Rose, Iris, Ylang, Clove, Orange blossom,
Creamy notes

Base Notes: Patchouli, Cedarwood, Vanilla, Solar notes,
Musk.

Release year: 2020

Nose: Cecile Zarokian/ Jan Ewoud Vos

My rating: smell: 5.0 / uniqueness: 5.0/ durability: 5.0 / projection: 4.0

Puredistance “Gold” – the golden essence

Puredistance has just reminded of itself for the second time this year. Introduced in spring AENOTUS with its surprisingly durable and refreshing note beautifully combined with the summer heat. Autumn brings us a perfume with a completely different character and a very autumnal name. Gold which – as explains Jan Ewoud Vos, the owner and artistic director of the brand – is the last element of the colorful trilogy after Black and White. This perfume is unique in many respects…

Jan Ewoud Vos began working on this perfume in March 2017. He contacted a well-known perfumer who has never worked for Puredistance before. The process of composing Gold lasted over a year, but ultimately none of the proposed versions convinced Jan to publish them. He decided to discontinue work and returned to the subject after a few months, in October 2018 – this time in the company of Antoine Lie. The perfumer who did already many excellent Puredistance perfumes: Black, White, AENOTUS and Warsaw). This time work went very quickly and already in June 2019 the fragrance was ready.

Antoine Lie had complete freedom when selecting the ingredients for this perfume. There was although one condition. They had to be of the highest quality selected without compromise. Just as always in case of Puredistance. Many perfumers would be overwhelmed by such opportunities but Antoine Lie did his job great. The source of exceptional ingredients – L’Atelier Français des Matières – is located in the French Archamps.

The inspiration for the creation of Gold was “Golden Modriaan,” as Jan Eoud Vos calls this cubist graphic. It mainly presents various shades of gold. It reflects the timeless concept of gold elegance that naturally harmonizes with the surroundings. Elegant shades of gold – differing in intensity and warmth – are harmoniously arranged here in a well-balanced pattern.

How does Gold smell? Very adequate for the name. We associate gold with value and wealth and – naturally – with luxury. And this is how Gold smells. Very rich, with excellent ingredients and very saturated (36% of the extract!), which can be clearly smelled. The perfume shimmers with various shades and delights with many layers. In terms of character it is an oriental perfume composed in such a way that it has the characteristics of a perfect unisex. It is a combination of spices (pepper that beautifully opens this fragrance, cinnamon, clove) with a noble jasmine absolute, surrounded by balsams, resins and woods (including labdanum, myrrh, styrax, benzoin) and a culinary accent of vanilla and tonka.

Gold is a type of a fragrance that can be known to anyone who has already encountered luxury perfumery (early Amouage or Roja Parfums), except that its form is here – typical of Lie’s style – compact and modern. The composition is classic, but its character is absolutely contemporary. The fragrance – when it settles on the skin – beautifully projects and gradually transforms into a characteristic signature that appears on the skin several dozen minutes after the application. It is a surprising, great and memorable chord, full of depth. Durability and projection are not subject to discussion here. The former is all-day, the latter is on a balanced but significant level.

Gold wears with great pleasure and a sense of dealing with real luxury. And it is not just an empty slogan. Because really, how else can a perfume smell of luxury if not like Gold ?

Gold impresses and Puredistance once again confirms its unique position on the perfume market – as a truly luxury brand, not going for quality shortcuts and offering the highest fragrance experience. Gold is a scented neoclassical masterpiece. Dealing with such a perfume is the highest pleasure for a connoisseur.

Top notes: green mandarin, bergamot, pink pepper, rosemary, clove

Heart notes: jasmine absolute, cistus absolute, geranium, cinnamon absolute

Base notes: styrax, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, vanilla, tonka, castoreum, vetiver

Release year: 2019

Nose: Antoine Lie/ Jan Ewoud Vos

My rating: smell: 6.0 / durability: 5.0 / projection: 4.5-> 4.0

Puredistance „AENOTUS” – sensual freshness of the southern wind

It took the perfumer Antoine Lie almost three years to reach the fragrant place where Jan Ewoud Vos wanted to go. During the work on the new perfume Puredistance, both creators repeatedly reached the creative wall. The vision of the owner of the Puredistance brand turned out to be so difficult. To materialize it the perfumer had to increase the concentration of the fragrance to  unprecedented nowadays 48%, which means that AENOTUS is technically an extremely concentrated perfume.

Originally conceived as a signature perfume for Jan Ewoud Vos, AENOTUS was supposed to be the perfect combination of refreshing freshness with sensual depth. The smell was – according to assumptions – not to dissapear after a fresh opening, but to remain on the skin for a long time in the form of a sensual skin-scent. After the countless attempts to complete these assumptions, Vos decided to include AEONTUS in the Puredistance offer. That’s how it happened and the latest fragrance of one of the last truly luxury perfume houses was launched this very month.

The opening of the scent is sparkling, refreshing citrus with an accent shifted to its green side.

My first associations ran towards the essence of bergamot and lime, but – to my surprise – neither one nor the other in the official list of notes will be found. So probably the ingredients that build the heart (above all the essence of green currant buds and petit grain – the essence of the orange tree leaves) add this crisp, green character. The refreshing nature of AEONOTUS is certainly influenced by cleverly added mint. This citrus-green accord turns on the skin into a very pleasant signature. Deepened by patchouli and oakmoss in the base and fixed by a solid dose of musks (which appear in the scent quite early, because just a few minutes after the application, just to later left where they belong – in the background) it sits on the skin for a very long time, slowly warming up and developing into the sensual, musk-wood-moss base. A bit of a chypre one.

For one thing man must be prepared when testing AENOTUS. It’s a perfume consisting essentially of two acts, the first of which is shorter and expressive, and the other is long-lasting and quiet. That one lasts for hours, but has a very subtle, close-to-the-skin character.

I am almost sure that the fragrance will be even more appreciated during warm or hot weather, because of its construction, which should not only resist high temperatures but also allow the full aroma to bloom.

Jan Ewoud Vos

Jan Ewoud Vos notes, and I fully agree with that, that AENOTUS stays incredibly long and almost unchanged on clothing. His signature fresh-sensual chord seems to last there forever …

At the end, a few sentences about the intriguing name, which in the first moment can resemble to all the fans of the male perfumery a masculine bestseller of recent years…).

AENOTUS took its name from Aeolus – the mythical god of winds, which brings coolness and refreshment to Southern Europe. In AENOTUS cool and crisp notes are combined with the delicate, sensual warmth of this geographical region.

Despite the rather traditional content, AENOTUS certainly distinguishes itself with its form, saturation and intensity and above-average durability (after all, 48% concentration is already the real scented Himalayas) and in fact a rare combination of freshness and depth, refreshment and sensuality. It adds new content to the Puredistance perfume offer, while continuing the traditional quality for this house. It is – as usual in the case of Puredistance – a proposal for the most demanding scent lovers.

main accords: citrusy, green, musky

head notes: orange, tangerine, lemon, yuzu

heart notes: mint, black currant buds, petit grain

base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, musks

rok premiery: 2019

nos: Antoine Lie

rating: scent: 5,0/  long lastiness 5,0/ projection/ sillage: 4,0 –> 3,0

Puredistance SHEIDUNA – a marriage of oriental sensuality and Parisian elegance

Is perfume luxury a term that still means anything nowadays?

At a time when brands considered to be a luxury are releasing sometimes several fragrances a year, often confirming the age-old rule that more does not mean any better (and actually it is usually an opposite), the creator of the Puredistance brand Jan Ewoud Vos since its inception cares about it to be seen as a synonym for true luxury. It is not only about the juice itself, which is in that case always of the highest quality, but also about everything that comes with it – from an unusual bottle, through luxury accessories, limited distribution, respectively high price to the frequency with which the brand launches a new fragrance. Puredistance launches it once a year or less and only because of that fact the brand is one of the few exceptions. Recall: in 2007 there was the first perfume Puredistance I. In 2010, the brand presented two scents: female Antonia and male Puredistance M. In 2012 appeared Opardu, in 2013 Black and in 2015 – White. For 2016 an unique launch was announced …

Admittedly, the launch of the new fragrance was this time extremely carefully prepared and carried out. The advertising campaign served in the electronic media long before the premiere resembled campaign of a new film by a famous director. At the beginning, it was only known that Puredistance had been preparing a new fragrance. With time, the company revealed its name giving its letters gradually one by one. Once we had learned that its name was SHEIDUNA, representatives of the brand became literally silent.

Company was dosing the tension to such an extent that even during this year’s Esxence trade fair in Milan its representatives refused to disclose any details about the announced autumn release. Even the fact to whom this time Jan Ewoud Vos entrusted to compose the perfume remained a mistery…

Jan Ewoud Vos came up with the name of the perfume combining words SHE (She) and Dune (Dune). It reflects the nature of the scent, which is a combination of Parisian elegance and oriental sensuality.

After some time the name of the perfumer (Cecile Zarokian) was revealed, then SHEIDUNA  was presented in New York before the official launch, where it provoked positive reactions. Zarokian herself participated in the presentation. The fact that it was she who translated  Jan Ewoud Vos’ vision into a mixture of fragrant molecules thrilled perfume industry and critics. Cecile has been very creative in recent years and with SHEIDUNA she once again proved that he has a lot to say in perfumery and that despite of a relatively short career, she have already worked out here own style. Her fragrances are often works of perfume art (Epic Woman Amouage, Mon Nom Est Rouge Majda Bekkali, Tango Masque Milano, Aqua Sextius Jul et Mad, Patchouliful Laboratorio Olfattivo, to mention just the best).

Work on SHEIDUNA lasted about a year, and the world premiere took place in September 2016 during the Pitti Fragranze event in Florence. According to representatives of the brand the aroma created there a real sensation. Reactions of the audience had been captured on numerous pictures:

SHEIDUNA smells very natural from the first to the very last second. The top chord appears as an aromatic blend of citruses (mostly lemon and tangerine) reinforced with aldehydes and juicy green black currant. Under that fresh aroma gradually emerges the heart of the fragrance, built with a key essence – that of Bulgarian rose. It has been traditionally combined here geranium and patchouli and subtly spiced up with cloves. The heart is at first rosy-spicy, but with the passage of time it turns into a very sensual and very complex aroma, where rose is still present, but it changes its surroundings. The smell is getting warmer and the nostrils begin to smell a scent which is a kind of Cecile Zarokian’s signature when it comes to floral-oriental aesthetics – a blend of amber, resins, vanilla absolute, Tonka and musk with a floral dominant (here it is obviously rose). The effect is similar to what we smell in Mon Nom Est Rouge for Majda Bekkali and – to some extent – also Tango Masque Milano. SHEIDUNA, however, is in its nature more balanced, harmonious and subtle. Less experimental and more classic. Goes off the skin very slowly, being a long-lasting skin scent where traces of rose are attached to the skin with a solid dose of musk. Durability is here also a result of a very high concentration: with 27% SHEIDUNA is basically an extract de parfum.

SHEIDUNA projects noticeably, but subtly, which also makes it different from the previously mentioned fragrances composed by Cecile which power is not always acceptable for everyone. Honestly though, I expected SHEIDUNA to smell somewhat more robust and intense. On the other hand, if I remember other Puredistance fragrances correctly, none of them belong to the titans of power, and the brand apparently prefers scents that are not olfactory bombs, which of course does not diminish their value at all.

In my opinion SHEIDUNA is – in spite of a female targeting – a unisex scent with just slightly female inclination. Devotees of oriental scents of both sexes can fall in love with it. As an oriental fragrance with a rose dominant SHEIDUNA is a very well done addition to the Puredistance’s scented offer.

Will SHEIDUNA meet the expectations of perfume connoisseurs, as was the case in New York and Florence? We will probably find out soon. The fragrance is now hitting the shelves of the stores cooperating with Puredistance.

P.S. My wife is getting a lot of complements while wearing it which doesn’t surprise me at all as it smells really magnificent on her. 

main ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetiver, patchouli, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods and musk

launched in: 2016

perfumer: Cecile Zarokian